Trend colour green - change of course in the textile industry
20.08.2024 - The era of thoughtless consumption is coming to an end. More and more consumers are scrutinising the production conditions of the goods they buy and looking for sustainable alternatives. This change of heart has not gone unnoticed by the fashion industry. Luxury brands and fast fashion giants are discovering sustainability as an integral part of their business models.
For a long time, the fashion industry was considered one of the world's biggest polluters. Gigantic water consumption, environmentally harmful pesticides in cotton cultivation and the exploitation of labour characterised the picture. But the wind is changing. More and more fashion houses are focussing on sustainable materials such as organic cotton, recycled polyester or innovative, vegan alternatives.
Pioneers such as Stella McCartney, known for her commitment to animal-free fashion, or the outdoor label Patagonia, which has been focussing on recycled materials and fair production conditions for years, show that sustainability and style do not have to be a contradiction in terms. Major fashion houses such as H&M and C&A are also following suit and establishing sustainable collections and recycling programmes. A large number of leading companies have joined forces in initiatives such as the Fashion Pact to act more sustainably together. The Fashion Pact was launched by French President Emmanuel Macron at the G7 summit in Biarritz in 2019 and now includes more than 150 well-known brands and companies such as Chanel, Nike, Adidas, H&M and Prada. This pact is committed to combating climate change, protecting biodiversity and preserving the oceans. The aim is to significantly reduce the fashion industry's ecological footprint.
Critics criticise the fact that sustainability is often used as a marketing tool without fundamentally changing practices throughout the supply chain. A high level of transparency and the certification of sustainable production standards are essential to enable conscious consumption. However, supporters emphasise that even individual projects and partial solutions can already bring about improvements and a change in attitude and should therefore be viewed positively and not as pure "greenwashing".
Here are eleven examples of fashion houses and their sustainability initiatives:
Patagonia
Patagonia's Worn Wear programme, launched in 2013, is a pioneering sustainability initiative that promotes the longevity of clothing and supports the circular economy. As a pioneer in sustainability, Patagonia encourages customers to repair or resell their worn garments. The programme offers a comprehensive repair service, with over 45 permanent employees in North America repairing more than 30,000 items annually. Customers can also return used Patagonia products and receive credit for them. These items are then cleaned, repaired if necessary and resold in the Worn Wear online shop. Products that can no longer be repaired are recycled to produce new materials. To empower customers to take action themselves, Patagonia provides instructions and tutorials for simple repairs. A special initiative is the annual repair tour in Europe, where Patagonia employees carry out free repairs on outdoor clothing, regardless of the brand. In Europe, Patagonia also works with the United Repair Centre in Amsterdam, which offers training and employment opportunities to young adults and new arrivals from refugee backgrounds.
Stella McCartney
Stella McCartney is known for her strong commitment to environmentally friendly materials and innovation in the fashion industry. She uses organic materials such as organic cotton and develops innovative alternatives to leather and fur. One example of this is Mylo, a leather-like fabric made from mushrooms. McCartney has also established herself as a pioneer in sustainable fashion by producing vegan "It Bags" and other products made from sustainable materials such as grape leather and recycled cashmere.
H&M
The Swedish company has set itself ambitious sustainability goals and is actively working to realise them. The aim is to use only recycled or sustainable materials by 2030. H&M has launched a clothing collection initiative to recycle textiles and is investing in innovative recycling technologies to convert old clothes into new fibres and materials. By 2040, the company aims to become climate-positive and switch entirely to renewable energy. H&M is also committed to improving working conditions by improving relationships with suppliers, promoting fair minimum wages and providing better training for employees. Despite these efforts, there is criticism that H&M is not yet realising its full sustainability potential, as the overall percentage of recycled material across its entire output is low. Nevertheless, H&M is rated positively in the Fashion Transparency Index and occupies one of the top places for the transparency of its sustainability reporting.
Gucci
Gucci Equilibrium is a comprehensive sustainability and social responsibility initiative of the Italian company that aims to harmonise creativity and sustainability. The project encompasses various aspects, including the Gucci Changemakers programme to promote inclusion and diversity, efforts to create a sustainable supply chain and the development of innovative materials such as "Demetra". Gucci is also involved in social projects, for example in partnership with UNICEF, and is committed to environmental protection and a circular economy in the fashion industry. Through transparent communication via the Gucci Equilibrium website, the company demonstrates its commitment to positive change in the fashion industry that respects both people and planet.
House of Dagmar
The Swedish fashion label was founded in 2005 by sisters Karin Söderlind, Kristina Tjäder and Sofia Wallenstam. Since then, the company has made a name for itself in the global luxury fashion industry and is known for its sustainable and ethical practices. The label uses environmentally friendly materials and takes care to minimise the ecological footprint of its products. Sustainable practices include the use of biodegradable and recycled materials and the promotion of transparency in the supply chain. House of Dagmar's commitment to sustainability has already been recognised: the label received the Zalando Sustainability Award at Copenhagen Fashion Week 2021.
Adidas
The second largest sporting goods manufacturer in the world is strongly committed to sustainability through several initiatives. One important partnership was with "Parley for the Oceans", in which sportswear and shoes are made from recycled ocean plastic. This collaboration has contributed to the production of over 77 million pairs of shoes made from plastic waste from beaches and coastal regions. However, this partnership will end in 2024. In addition, Adidas has launched the "Choose to Give Back" programme in collaboration with the second-hand platform thredUP to reuse or resell used sportswear and shoes. Adidas has also joined the "Fashion for Good" initiative, which aims to promote sustainable innovation in the fashion industry. This partnership supports the development and scaling of sustainable technologies and materials. In addition, Adidas has committed to using only recycled polyester in all products from 2024 and is committed to reducing its environmental footprint through sporting activities and conscious consumption through the "Move For The Planet" initiative.
Outerknown
The Californian lifestyle label, founded by surf legend Kelly Slater in collaboration with designer John Moore, is a pioneer for sustainability in the fashion industry. It consistently focuses on environmentally friendly practices and innovative materials, such as the development of the world's first boardshorts made from merino wool. Outerknown uses recycled and organic materials and works closely with fair trade certified manufacturers to ensure ethical production methods. The brand takes a minimalist approach to design and focuses on producing high quality and durable clothing with a low environmental impact. Its commitment to sustainability is also reflected in collaborations with other companies, such as a special watch collection with Breitling.
Burberry
The British luxury brand is strongly committed to sustainability and is involved in a variety of initiatives. The ReBurberry Fabric Project, a collaboration with the British Fashion Council, donates surplus fabric to fashion schools and universities, with over 12,000 metres of fabric distributed to more than 30 institutions to date. The company has set itself ambitious targets, including carbon neutrality in its own operations by 2022 and a carbon positive footprint by 2040, and is a member of RE100, a project for companies committed to 100 per cent renewable energy. Another important aspect is the traceability of all key materials by 2025, with 100 per cent certified recycled nylon, recycled polyester, wool and organic cotton to be used by then. Burberry is also a member of various sustainability initiatives such as the Fashion Pact and the Ellen MacArthur Foundation for Circular Fashion. The company also demonstrates its social commitment by donating to youth organisations worldwide and supporting LGBTQ+ initiatives.
LVMH
The luxury group LVMH Moët Hennessy - Louis Vuitton SE, which owns brands such as Givenchy, Céline, Kenzo, Marc Jacobs and Fendi, has launched a comprehensive sustainability programme. The "Life 360" programme sets ambitious sustainability targets for 2023, 2026 and 2030 in four core areas: Circular economy, biodiversity, climate and traceability and transparency. For 2026, LVMH has set itself the goal of certifying 100 per cent of its strategic raw materials to ensure responsible sourcing. By 2030, the Group aims to integrate 100 per cent of its products into a circular economy and reduce its greenhouse gas emissions by 50 per cent (compared to 2019). LVMH also plans to regenerate five million hectares of habitat for animals and plants by 2030. To achieve these goals, LVMH has initiated the "Life 360 Business Partners" programme, which involves suppliers and partners. The Group organises annual Sustainability Business Partners Days and is introducing a Life Academy to promote environmentally friendly practices and support the achievement of these ambitious goals.
Prada
The Italian company is strengthening its sustainability efforts through several initiatives and partnerships. In 2019, it introduced the innovative Re-Nylon project, which uses recycled Econyl nylon made from plastic and textile fibre waste. This material can be recycled indefinitely and is used in various product lines, including a collaboration with Adidas. Prada's long-term goal is to convert its entire nylon production to re-nylon. In addition, the company recently joined the Fashion Task Force, an initiative of the British King Charles III, which is committed to sustainable solutions in the fashion industry. As part of this, Prada is involved in projects such as the Digital Passport, which informs customers about the sustainability credentials of their purchases. In addition, Prada has joined the United Nations Global Compact to develop and implement responsible business practices. These diverse commitments underline Prada's commitment to sustainability and innovation in the luxury fashion industry.
MUD Jeans
The Dutch company is a pioneer in the sustainable fashion industry with its unique leasing model for jeans. Customers can lease jeans, wear them and return them later or exchange them for a new pair. This model supports the circular economy, as old jeans are recycled and made into new products. MUD Jeans uses recycled materials and organic cotton, with its denim currently made from 40 per cent recycled consumer waste. The company is continuously working to increase the proportion of recycled materials and improve its recycling processes. In addition to selling directly to end customers, MUD Jeans also offers a leasing programme for retailers. Since autumn 2020, their webshop has been running on Shopify Plus, which has improved usability and functionality. MUD Jeans remains true to its sustainable concept and is constantly developing it further.
These initiatives show that major fashion houses are increasingly taking responsibility for their environmental impact. However, the road to a truly sustainable fashion industry is still long and requires continuous effort and innovation. We as consumers can also establish a sustainable approach to our clothing by making conscious purchases and focussing on quality rather than quantity. Buying second-hand clothing, repairing and caring for garments and supporting brands with a genuine commitment to sustainability are other ways in which we can make a contribution. Ultimately, it is up to all of us - consumers, businesses and governments - to work together towards a more sustainable future for fashion. Only then can we ensure that fashion not only looks good, but is also good for our planet.
Cover picture: Gabby K./Pexels
Author
Since his editorial traineeship in Hamburg, Jan Strahl has worked as a journalist, editor or author for almost every large and small publishing house in the city. He writes for consumer media and corporate publishing publications on art, fashion, lifestyle and knowledge topics.
