Catwalk Altpapierhof - not for Heidi, Coco and Karl

06.09.2018 - One thing is certain: these creations will never make it onto the catwalks. Nor will they be considered for Germany's next top model or YouTube fashion bloggers. But even if none of the models will ever appear on the cover of a leading fashion magazine, they are definitely eye-catching. What is it all about? Fashion made from recycled paper, a photographer who artistically stages environmental protection and a Steinbeis marketing manager who reacted somewhat surprised to the request for a possible shoot on the factory premises.

Young designer and photographer chooses waste paper bales as the location for her fashion shoot

Art as social commitment - for Gina Tilgert, a photography student at the BTK in Hamburg, this is an aspect of her self-image. Her paper fashion shoot amidst the bales of waste paper on the Steinbeis factory site takes a stand against the waste of raw materials and the production methods of corporate labels in the fashion industry. "A wake-up call and a call to rethink, also for consumers, that is one of the intentions of this project work."

In 2017, the fashion industry in Germany generated sales of around 12 billion euros and achieved an export quota of well over 40 per cent. Following the big shows in Paris, Milan and New York, the creations are pumped into the sales channels, in stores, retail chains, outlets and online shops, only to disappear again soon afterwards. German households invest around EUR 64 billion in fashion items and brands (as at 2017).

Beautiful fashion, dangerous chemicals

Fashion is short-lived, not only in the designer studios, but also among consumers. But regular replenishment and rapid trend changes are guaranteed. In the so-called "fast fashion" sector, mass clothing chains bring out 12 collections a year. And textile factories in China, India and Bangladesh produce for German and international fashion labels on a piecework basis. Under appalling and environmentally unfriendly conditions. Numerous investigations and studies have shown that harmful substances are used in the production of mass-produced clothing in newly industrialising countries, some of which end up as persistent, toxic chemicals in waste water. Virtually no companies produce in Germany any more - for cost reasons. Exceptions confirm the rule. It is mainly smaller labels that are committed to sustainable fashion. Although this is still a macro trend and the market share is just under 5 per cent, "slow fashion" is attracting increasing interest.

low Fashion follows a philosophy of values and produces sustainably

In contrast to fast-moving mass-produced goods and manufacturing, sustainable fashion relies on organic or recycled materials. A philosophy of values is pursued, not necessarily a quick profit. These are smaller labels that produce locally or simply pieces that last longer and don't go out of fashion. However, environmentally friendly,_low-water and_low-CO2 production and the use of gentle materials such as viscose made from regenerative cellulose, organic silk, organic wool, linen and hemp come at a price. "Eco-fashion" is relatively expensive, which is unfortunately a barrier to purchase for many interested consumers. In her work, Gina Tilgert campaigns for "clean clothing", slow fashion. "Not with brand advertising, but with advertising for sustainability."

The second life of paper - Gina Tilgert shows its potential

Paper has many second lives: Paper aeroplanes, stuffing material for wet shoes, storage material for cargo ships, raw material for newspapers and new recycled paper. So why not fashion for a change? The idea was to turn glossy magazines such as Vogue, Elle and Harper's Bazaar into creations. "Nothing for Karl, Heidi or fashion shows," she says. "More an affair of the heart. Environmental protection is important to me, as is fashion. That was the impetus for this project work in the field of artistic image strategies."

There's no accounting for taste, as Gina Tilgert knows. "The fact that this fashion line is not suitable for everyday use would be proven by the first downpour. The image strategy behind it aims to convey the value of raw materials and consumer goods. Things that have been discarded and used are not rubbish, something that has to disappear from the scene. Rather, I want to use the shoot to raise awareness of the things that are important in the production, consumption and utilisation chain. The things I showcase, in this case recycled paper creations, say something about raw materials and life cycles. Many consumer goods and materials have a second life. That simply makes them even more valuable."

Healthy fashion instead of fashion dolls

In addition to the recycled paper industry, companies from a wide range of sectors use recycled materials for their production. And no consumer can tell by looking at them that they are recycled materials. Gina Tilgert created the designs herself. The idea for the hat came from Chanel, for the bag from Louis Vuitton and for the bow ties from Gucci. "I reinterpreted things and used paper as the material. Old fashion magazines found a new use. A new aesthetic." A popular means in art, that of alienation, to sharpen the eye for the artistic intention. "This is not about favour or fashion awards. None of the models want to apply for a casting. I'm promoting healthy fashion, not fashion dolls. I'm interested in the potential that lies in the fabrics of the recycling industry and increasing quality of life with sustainable fashion."

It's not about favour or fashion prices. None of the models want to apply for a casting. I'm promoting healthy fashion, not fashion dolls. I'm interested in the potential that lies in the fabrics of the recycling industry and in improving quality of life with sustainable fashion.

Factory farming and mass fashion - there are similarities.

It's clear to see that Gina Tilgert is passionate about sustainability and slow fashion in particular. "Glossy magazines, TV shows and social media spread trendy looks and must-haves. Today they are masterpieces, tomorrow we find them cheap and mass-produced under terrible conditions in international fashion chains. There are similarities between factory farming and fashion for the masses when it comes to the supply and production chain. The day after tomorrow they will be disposed of by customers and a new piece from this chain will be bought cheaply. A waste of resources. I tend to favour "slow fashion". Among other things, this means producing fashion responsibly, fairly and sustainably. My creations are a statement in this respect. I prioritise the process of recycling, in this case the recycling of paper."

We liked Gina Tilgert's artistic plea for sustainable fashion. We were happy to support her in her photography project. You can find Gina Tilgert's work here: Instagram: @GinasPhotographs; http://www.gina-ti.com/hauterecyclage

The team around Gina Tilgert:

• Gina Tilgert, photographer
• Anna Haake - Hair Make-up Hamburg,

www.annahaake.deSophia Kühle, light and assistanceLia Laukant, model

Cover picture: Kris Atomic on Unsplash

Author: Klaus E. Jopp
https://www.jopp-communications.de/

Cover picture: Kris Atomic on Unsplash